As one of the most enduring streetwear examples of a localized scene that became an international phenomenon incredibly quickly, streetwear certainly has a broad appeal.
- The New York hip hop scene of the 1970s and 80s wasn’t a natural environment for a cultural ‘colab’, but two very different worlds were about to collide.
- Skaters might not have been the obvious choice to throw their stylistic lot in with the MCs and rappers that were taking over the music scene.
- but there was actually a lot of common ground between the two groups.
The crossover points are possibly the reason that streetwear is still a popular choice today, and why skaters and rappers have both adopted an unofficial and ever-changing uniform of baggy jeans with a printed tee and a graphic hoodie. Some of the most important aspects of streetwear include:
Location
Both groups were railing against the cultural norms in urban environments, finding their own ways to make the most of their surroundings. For skaters, that meant using the trappings of city life as playgrounds, whereas musicians gathered and shared beats, lyrics, and fashion tips.
- The inspiration for streetwear was also influenced by the cultural influences of the time, combining a tongue-in-cheek nostalgia for 80s fashion with a desire for practical, yet stylish and recognizable clothing.
- For both rappers and skaters, comfort was king, whether that was a slightly softer landing or practical outfits for those that might have to run from the law mid rap-battle.
Culture
Skate culture was closely linked with the west-coast surfers, whereas hip hop was increasingly delving into its traditional African American roots. Both focus heavily on the bright colours and a resurgence of headgear, encompassing everything from baseball caps to beanies.
Rappers like MC Hammer made waves with his fashion sense and his more dance-focused act was the perfect showcase for the wide pants that he made famous. The increasing popularity of music on television gave musicians a chance to express themselves through their choice of clothes as well as their music.
Longevity
Streetwear is all about function before form and this means that there are certain looks and themes that have become timeless. The popularity of ‘athleisure’ wear has brought streetwear to a new generation while retaining all the things that made it important and countercultural in the first place.
While streetwear may have relatively humble origins, often featuring repurposed workwear and the work of small-scale artisanal screen printers, for example, the wholescale embracing of ‘bling’ opened up the genre significantly.
- ‘The underdogs coming out on top’ was a compelling narrative, and the potential for the disenfranchised youth to improve their circumstances through rap was very real.
- Big name fashion houses wanted to capitalize on the trend for overt demonstrations of wealth, and Burberry, Fendi, and Gucci all brought out lines designed to be worn by the flashiest streetwear influencers.
Exclusivity
A large part of what makes streetwear exciting is the sense of belonging to a movement or a community that has exiled itself from the mainstream. Pre-internet, it was all about coming up with new skate trick or unearthing a beat that will get everyone dancing – originality and creativity was the key and the results were judged on their own merits.